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This will increase the current that goes through the remaining lights because we have eliminated part of the resistance.
However, taking one light out should not increase the current enough to damage the remaining LED's in same circuit.
There is of course a limit. Bypassing any more that two lights in the same series circuit will likely increase the current enough to put the remaining LED lights in jeopardy which will definitely destroy the entire half of the light string.
The fist step is to find the LED that is no longer working. The non working LED will obviously be in the string half that is not working.
With the lights plugged in, use the voltage detector to check the live voltage wire between each light, starting at the end that plugs into the wall outlet.
There should be voltage detected at the live wire going into the first light. Then check the wire that goes from the first light to second light.
This is assuming that the first half of the light string is not working. If it is the second then start at light 36 for a 70 light string.
Keep checking for voltage between the lights. As soon as you find a wire between the lights that no longer has voltage detected the light prior is likely the light that is fault.
As an example, if there is voltage on the wire between light 6 and light 7, but there is not voltage between light 7 and light 8, then light 7 is likely the problem.
Just to make sure test for voltage between the next set of lights just to make sure. There should be no voltage detected.
I did this to prove a concept. It is not part of the instructions. You could get electrocuted. When I was sure of the LED that was faulty I unplugged the lights from the electrical source and then put a sewing pin through the wires going into the LED to bypass the light in question.
After making sure the pin was not touching anything conductive I plugged the lights back in and the light string half that did not work before now worked except for the light I bypassed with the pin.
This proved I found the faulty LED. I then unplugged the lights and began the repair. At this point I cut the wires going into the faulty LED, put on my heat shrink tube 2 tubes , soldered the wires, and shrunk the tube.
With the faulty LED light removed the light string half that did not work is now working minus 1 light.
As I mentioned earlier the removal of a light will increase the current and LED's do not like high current. I measure the current in the light string half that was not faulty and it was 9mA.
Measuring the current in the light string half with the one light removed the current was 12mA. The general upper limit for LED's is 20mA so the current level is still reasonable even with the one light removed.
I am happy to say the lights are still working fine after two weeks. Question 6 weeks ago on Introduction. I'm trying to repair the wiring for a string of 3 color changing LED spotlights, made by 'Holiday Home', that got run over by a lawn mower.
The second and third light in the string remain connected and in tact but the first light, where the input power enters the string, was severed as was the female outlet used to connect adjoining lights.
From the first light, in addition to the power in cord, are 3 more wires like common lamp cord. Where do these wires connect?
Outdoor lights can end up with water in the outer globe! This, combined with the tinned steel!! LED leads, can cause the leads to corrode over their year of storage.
I've needed to replace 8 LED's in a single string. The strings need to be dried before storage. Question 11 months ago.
I have a 60ft string of white LED Christmas lights and a small section of the lights are dimmer than the others.
Approximately 30ft are good and bright then about 10ft are dim and then the other 20ft are good again. All the bulbs are working and are very consistent in brightness including the ones that are dimmer.
Any ideas on fixing them, would like to fix instead of replacing the whole thing. Thank you. When you say LED, are you referring to the newest strings of lights out there, or just the lower wattage mini lights that have been available for a long time?
For someone who went through 2 of 5 semesters of Digital Electronics Tech 10 years ago, I have forgotten just about everything.
I saw a video a while back that said some lights have a third wire, and that wire can be snipped out without any problem. Reply 5 years ago on Step 7.
They're lower wattage than mini lights which are lower wattage than C7 and C9 incandescent bulbs which get hot to the touch. Although the same troubleshooting method can be used for either LED or mini incandescent, since they use series circuits.
When a mini light shunt fails or a bulb becomes loose, you have to find the faulty bulb the same way. As for snipping out a third wire A typical string uses 3 wires and they're all necessary the hot wire that carries the v to the next series circuit and socket at the end of the string, one that daisy chains the bulbs for the series circuit and the return or neutral wire.
Remember to replace bulbs with the same voltage rating, 3. Reply 11 months ago. Another tip: You might expect to find the spot where you lose voltage as you move further from the plug.
But you might have it at the far end and loose it as you move towards the plug. It depends upon how you connected the non-polarized plug.
Good point. Try to find the neutal line that only attaches to the last light in the string segment and make sure its plug prong goes in the neutral side of the outlet receptacle.
It will take a bit of studying of the string and its plug if it is not a polarized plug. Tip 11 months ago. I have a bit of confusion.
I thought leds were direct current devices. Light when current flows in forward bias direction and not in reverse.
Yet you are successfully using an ac detector to find the open led. OR does the string of leds and their resistors self rectify the ac line current when the string is working, but when open the ac is detectable?
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